Research Areas
The research is addressing baseline data requirements across five Thematic Areas, all of which contribute to the sustainable development and environmental impacts of the fashion and textile industry. Each thematic area (TA) is being addressed by teams of researchers, working with expert theme leaders.
TA1 Determine environmental target areas
Leads: Prof. Phil Purnell, Dr. Dawn Ellams, & Prof. Parikshit Goswami
The research is critically reviewing current baselines to understand the environmental impact of fashion and textiles and is focusing on extracting key metrics perceived to represent these impacts (e.g., carbon emissions, land use, emissions to water and other values). It is also reviewing the accuracy and precision of such metrics through analysis of existing LCA data, national carbon accounts, and other proxy data. The work will determine high impact target areas for environmental improvement, outlining evidence-based standards and key performance indicators. It will create a broad and interdisciplinary evidence base for improving the sustainability of design, manufacturing and consumption behaviours and analyse commonly proposed ‘green’ interventions in terms of their probable environmental impacts on an agreed subset of key metrics, across the supply chain. Finally, this research is exploring the baselines that need to be established to facilitate end of life reuse / recycling / remanufacturing / disposal, and to determine the likely environmental savings achievable by various end-of-life destination scenarios, associated infrastructure requirements, and potential policy levers that could help develop the reuse/recycling sector.
TA2 Develop effective eco-credential standards
Lead: Prof. Effie Kesidou
The research is addressing the development of eco-standards to support a systemic green transformation. It is evaluating current eco-credential standards within the industry, and critically reviewing current and emerging approaches to devising and building eco-credential metrics for fashion and textiles, as well as in other industries, where good practice insights may be gained. This work will collate data on current eco-credential standards, including their use and effectiveness, and assess their benefits and consequences. The research will also explore deficiencies of existing eco-credential metrics and standards, including mechanisms for addressing limitations such as over-generalisations and simplifications in LCAs and the accounting of missing aspects, e.g., the ‘renewability’ of natural/ synthetic materials, real-world variations in the impacts of differnet textile materials made by different producers, and recycled or bio-based materials from different sources. Finally, evidence-based, scientifically robust approaches for building new metrics for communicating eco-credentials relevant to industry and government policy will be suggested to enable informed decision-making.
TA3 Assess progress in innovation (current, emerging and future)
Lead: Prof Jane Harris
This research is critically reviewing and evaluating emerging and future capabilities and the developmental progress of current and emerging technologies, innovations and solutions, including, for example, new bio-based feedstocks, e.g., waste/unused agricultural biomass, new textile manufacturing processes (end-to-end), textile engineering techniques to prevent microplastics emissions at source, or methods to significantly reduce their impact in the environment, as well as innovative sorting and waste recycling technologies. It will identify examples of operational innovation and best practice in the F&T industry, capable of substantially reducing carbon impacts and accelerating circularity, and will seek to work in collaboration with industry to explore existing and potential barriers to adoption of emergent innovation.
TA4 Identify major skills gaps
Leads: Prof. Amanda Briggs-Goode & Adam Mansell
The industry increasingly relies on an aging workforce with a mismatched skillset and the shortage of skills is the focus for Thematic Area 4. The research is addressing the industry’s skills requirements across three predominant categories: professional, educational and consumer, both in terms of the current and future workforce, and best practice for effectively harnessing expertise to support sustainable development. It will also address the need for better understanding by consumers and other stakeholders about sustainability and eco-credentials. It will highlight skills gaps and relevant expertise for delivering economically viable, environmentally sustainable transformation. It will pilot approaches to nurture interdisciplinary skills and the breaking down of different disciplinary silos. Novel approaches for attracting new entrants into the industry and the provision of multidisciplinary skills and education (HEI programmes through to business settings) will be explored and developed, including designing business models to embed new skills.
TA5 Understand & influence cultures & behaviours
Leads: Prof. Liz Barnes & Catherine Salvidge
The research aims to understand and integrate cultures and behaviour across the industry ecosystem. It is exploring current behaviours and cultural factors that restrict, or could be harnessed to drive, positive behaviour change at every level, enabling informed decision-making by the whole ecosystem. It is also creating new initiatives and educational tools for influencing positive consumer behaviour change, including exploring innovative methods based on science-based evidence, e.g., digital tools, immersive games, financial incentives, advertising, and social media, harnessing examples of best practice, involving industry and considering the role of policy, standards and regulation. It will address the challenges of current ‘push models’ of business that have been linked to overproduction and overconsumption in the UK, and the integral link with consumer/business behaviour.