Funding
Sustainable Transition Fund projects
Call 1 - starting from July 2024
1. Back to baselines: study of end-of-life textiles in Greater Manchester
This project seeks to determine the quality (re-usable vs non-reusable) and material makeup of textiles reaching the end of their life in Greater Manchester (GM), currently destined for disposal. Through a thorough examination of how textiles move through household waste recycling centres, waste bins, and sorting facilities, the project will gather data to understand the potential effects on existing sorting and recycling industry partners when more textiles are diverted from disposal. This data is crucial for developing a sustainable UK infrastructure that both benefits the environment and makes economic sense by maximising the value extracted from textile waste.
Project lead: Barbara Shepherd
Job title: Reader in Fashion Business
Organisation: Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University
Additional project members:
- Professor Paul Hooper - MMU (Co-Investigator)
- Nick Hall - MMU (Co-Investigator)
- Alan Wheeler - CEO, Textile Recycling Association
- Peter Page - Textile Recycling International Group, Group head of recycling
- Sarah Mellor - Head of SCP, Greater Manchester Combined Authority
- Leigh Broadhurst - Environment and Sustainable Development Lead, Suez Recycling and Recovery UK Ltd.
Expected start date: 1st August 2024
Expected end date: 31st January 2025
Project duration: 6 months
2. LEGI-STANDARDS: Data Standards, Legislation and DPPs: mapping the relationship between eco-credentials, legislation and digital supply chain solutions in the Textiles and Fashion industry
The LEGI-STANARDS project proposes to examine the (approximately 80) eco-standards currently relevant to T&F firms in the UK. The research team aims to identify, select and map the eco-standards to the 46 most relevant current and forthcoming regulations for UK T&F firms. The purpose of this mapping is to 1. Simplify understanding of directives; 2. Draw alignment to and effectiveness of eco-standards for legislative compliance; 3. Explore deficiencies of existing eco-credential metrics in relation to legislation. The outcome will provide fashion stakeholders, particularly under-resourced SMEs with a comprehensive and easy to understand overview of certifications that could validate compliance when legislation is enforced from 2025.
Project lead: Dr. Hilde Heim
Job title: Senior Lecturer, Deputy Division Head - Fashion Communication
Organisation: Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University
Additional Project Partners:
- Lauren Junestrand - UK Fashion & Textile Association
- Elizabeth Dakin - UK Fashion & Textile Association
- Noleen Willis - UK Fashion & Textile Association
Expected start date: 1st September 2024
Expected end date: 28th February 2025
Project duration: 6 months
3. Testing the impact of a visible EPR fee on consumer clothing choices
We will test the concept of a visible Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fee on clothing items to determine whether such a fee can be readily understood by consumers and what size of fee influences purchase decisions. The project outputs will be used to inform the emerging concept of a variable EPR fee being developed in QSA’s EPR Sandbox project. Understanding the impact of such a visible fee on consumer choices will inform (a) whether/how it’s a realistic policy option for future consideration and (b) whether fee visibility might reasonably be incentivised in any EPR system.
Project lead: Gerrard Fisher
Job title: Partner - Circular Business
Organisation: QSA Partners LLP
Additional Project Partners:
- Professor Stephen Russell - LITAC (University of Leeds)
Expected start date: 15th July 2024
Expected end date: 14th January 2025
Project duration: 6 months
4. Enabling Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): Developing an open standard for textiles and fashion data
Through QSA’s EPR Sandbox project, we have identified that there is potential for a simple way to gather data from producers relevant to EPR and enabling Individual Producer Responsibility. To date, we’ve worked with raw data from brands that were willing to engage in the initial Sandbox project only. To facilitate better data capture from all producers (especially smaller businesses) we wish to develop an Open Standard for Textiles and Fashion Data. Based on the principles of the existing Open3P standard for packaging, this would help to drive consistent data across many businesses, making comparable reporting and assessment more viable.
Project lead: Gerrard Fisher
Job title: Partner - Circular Business
Organisation: QSA Partners LLP
Additional Project Partners:
- Professor Effie Kesidou - Professor of Economics of Innovation & Sustainability (Leeds University Business School)
- Sophie Walker - Open Data Manchester
Expected start date: 1st August 2024
Expected end date: 31st October 2024
Project duration: 3 months
5. Material flow analysis of the non-clothing textiles economy in the UK
This proposal targets the overlooked segment of non-clothing textiles in global research, with a focus on material flows. Despite apparel constituting most consumer textiles in the UK and Europe, it is noteworthy that other consumer textile categories, such as household textiles, and textiles in other sectors like hospitality, medicine, and automotive industries, remain pivotal to our society and economy. The absence of standardised definitions and data on non-clothing textile flows hinders the effective implementation of reuse and recycling strategies. This proposal seeks to bridge this gap by identifying, defining, quantifying and analysing the flows of non-clothing textile streams in the UK.
Project lead: Lauren Junestrand
Job title: Innovation and Sustainability Network Manager
Organisation: UK Fashion & Textile Association
Additional partners:
- Professor Phil Purnell - Professor of Materials and Structures in the School of Civil Engineering (University of Leeds)
Expected start date: 1st September 2024
Expected end date: 28th February 2025
Project duration: 6 months
6. Cultivating a Culture of Clothing Reuse: Exploring Consumer Behaviours in Resale Participation
The proposal seeks to explore the underutilisation of clothing in the UK, focusing on consumer perceptions and barriers to resale. WRAP will deliver qualitative research, including eye tracking and interviews, to explore consumer interaction with online resale platforms. Collaboration with Textiles 2030 partners and academic institutions aims to provide actionable insights for the textiles sector, fostering informed decision-making to make resale more appealing and convenient. Ultimately, the goal is to cultivate a culture of reuse by addressing the issue of unworn and undervalued clothing. Extending the life of clothing is key to reducing environmental impacts. Although there have been significant increases in people buying pre-loved clothing in recent years, this is niche and not the norm. This proposal aims to increase the number of people buying pre-loved clothing for the first time. Using behavioural theory to understand which clothing categories are a gateway to change. Buying pre-loved is key in changing culture (TA5 theme).
Project lead: Martyn Lowder
Job title: Behaviour Change Specialist
Organisation: WRAP
Additional partners:
- Professor Liz Barnes - Professor of Fashion Marketing and Head of Manchester Fashion Institute (Manchester Metropolitan University)
Expected start date: 1st September 2024
Expected end date: 28th February 2025
Project duration: 6 months
Call 2 - Starting from October '24
7. The Care and Repair Guide: Reducing environmental impact and addressing skills gaps through responsible wardrobe management
The project aims to explore the critical relationship between consumers, brands and the charity retail sector regarding garment care, repair and second-life ownership to encourage responsible wardrobe management. Collaborating with UKFT and St. Oswald’s Hospice, the project will empower stakeholders with foundational skills to facilitate sustainable clothing behaviours intended to extend the lifetime of clothing. Key outputs will include a care and repair guide and workshops to activate critical intervention points. Upskilling tools will impart training opportunities about care and repair practices and responsible garment management within communities and domestic settings, including washing, repair and ownership behaviours.
Project leads: Prof. Anne Peirson-Smith & Dr. Alana James
Prof. Anne Peirson-Smith Dr. Alana James
Job titles:
Anne Peirson-Smith - Professor & Subject Lead in Fashion
Alana James - Associate Professor in Fashion
Organisation: School of Design, Northumbria University
Additional Partners:
- Lauren Junestrand - Innovation and Sustainability Network Manager (UKFT)
- Adam Mansell - CEO (UKFT)
- Vicki Tomlinson - Charity Sales Executive (St. Oswald's Hospice Ltd.)
Start date: 1st November 2024
Expected End date: 30th April 2025
Duration: 6 months
8. Breaking the fashion habit: efficacy of education as a behavioural intervention
Breaking the fashion habit: enabling consumers to make considered fashion purchases. This project investigates fashion overconsumption as habitual behaviour and measures the impact of a habit-theory educational intervention in altering online fashion overconsumption among young adults in the UK and Europe. Understanding and influencing fashion overconsumption is not only relevant to personal well-being but also enables the UK fashion and textile sector to mitigate broader ecological and social challenges through informed decision making and sustainability policy. Attitude-behaviour-gap theory illustrates that consumers can simultaneously hold pro-environmental beliefs while engaging in overconsumption. Analysis of participants buying data before, during and post-workshop intervention explores this inconsistency. The research outcomes will aid UK business to counteract and compete with unsustainable business models through informed business strategy and innovation.
Project leads: Edel Moore & Dr. Rafiq Elmansy
Edel Moore Dr. Rafiq Elmansy
Job titles:
Edel Moore - Lecturer in Marketing
Dr. Rafiq Elmansy - Programme Leader MA Design & Lecturer of Graphic Digital and Communication Design
Organisation: University of Leeds, School of Design
Edel Moore - web page Edel Moore - LinkedIn Dr Rafiq Elmansy - web page Dr Rafiq Elmansy - LinkedIn
Start date: 1st December 2024
Expected End date: 7th June 2025
Duration: 6 months
9. Consumer Tolerance to Colour Inconsistency for Sustainable Design
The fashion industry supply chain is the third largest contributor to global carbon emissions and 80% of this is determined at the design/production stage. Garment production currently focuses on accurate repeatability however, recent colour research using novel design strategies suggests that 81% of consumers will accept some colour inconsistency in online purchases. Working with John Smedley and Shima Seiki UK, this project questions the disconnect between design choices and sustainable consumer preferences, promoting a necessary production mindset change across the textile supply chain. Additionally addressing pre-consumer waste reduction, it suggests routes for returning deadstock yarn to the supply chain.
Project lead: Dr. Elizabeth Gaston
Job title: Assistant Professor - specialising in knit design, research, and education
Organisation: Northumbria University
Additional Partners:
- Chloe Lewis - Head of Sustainable Design (John Smedley Ltd.)
Start date: 1st November 2024
Expected end date: 30th April 2025
Duration: 6 months
10. LEGI-STANDARDS II: Mapping legislation, standards and digital solutions in the Textiles and Fashion industry
The LEGI-STANDARS II PROJECT (L-S II) proposes to build on the Manchester Fashion Institute’s Textiles Transparency Team’s (MFITT) Back to Baselines (B2B) LEGI-STANDARDS I project, that is currently mapping 80 eco-standards relevant to UK T&F firms to forthcoming global circularity regulations. The L-S II project proposes to add value to L-S I by evaluating 20 advanced digital solutions, or ‘digital product passports,’ (DPPs) that communicate eco-credentials and map these to the legislation identified in the L-S I project. The MFITT team will collaborate with industry partner UKFT to identify any unmet industry knowledge around DPP solutions. The project will be developed with input from TA2 lead academics at Leeds University Business School.
Project lead: Dr Hilde Heim
Job title: Senior Lecturer, Deputy Division Head - Fashion Communication
Organisation: Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester Fashion Institute
Additional Partners:
- Julie Hodson - Senior Lecturer at Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester Fashion Institute
- Prof. Gianpaolo Vignali - Professor of Sustainable Fashion Business, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester Fashion Institute
- Lauren Junestrand - Innovation and Sustainability Network Manager (UKFT)
- Elizabeth Dakin - Sustainability Manager (UKFT)
Start date: 1st December 2024
Expected end date: 31st May 2025
Duration: 6 months
11. Sustainable Transformation: Leveraging Lean Manufacturing for Digital Readiness in the UK Textile Industry
This project aims to demonstrate how Lean Manufacturing principles can lay the foundation for digital and green transformation in the UK textile industry. By investigating companies at different digital readiness levels, it will identify key challenges in traditional manufacturing and highlight potential productivity, cost, and sustainability gains. This work will pave the way for future data collection on carbon footprints and resource efficiencies, while also enhancing the knowledge and skills needed within the industry, thereby informing policy on support for UK textile manufacturing. The project addresses the industry's historical struggles with innovation due to economic pressures, perceived risks, and a lack of expertise, providing a pathway toward sustainable growth and efficiency.
Project lead: Dr Jo Conlon
Job title: Senior Lecturer in Fashion Business and Technology and Programme Director for postgraduate taught fashion programmes
Organisation: University of Manchester
Additional Partners:
- Bill Macbeth - Textile Centre of Excellence (TCoE)
- Dr Albachiara Boffelli - Assistant Professor, Sustainable and Global Supply Management (University of Bergamo)
- Ms Beatrice Colombo - Research Fellow in Smart Lean & Sustainable Manufacturing (University of Bergamo)
- Ms Maria Sofia Pugliese - Adjunct Professor, Department of Management, Information and Production Engineering (University of Bergamo)
- Mr Filippo Visintin - Associate Professor, Department of Industrial Engineering (Università degli Studi di Firenze)
Start Date: 1st October 2024
Expected end date: 31st March 2025
Duration: 6 months
12. Thread
Thread is an innovative platform designed to promote sustainable fashion through gamification, data-driven insights and the developing effective eco-credential standards. We will conduct market research, data analysis and develop visual communication strategies. Our focus is on analysing data requirements and integration challenges posed by the DPP, while simultaneously focusing on exploring the most effective ways to visually communicate this information. We will ensure that the resultant outcome will be interoperable with DPP requirements. This approach will enable Thread to provide users with clear, actionable insights into sustainable fashion, while also supporting brands and retailers in complying with emerging sustainability regulations. The project will contribute to a more transparent and informed fashion industry.
Project lead: Malath Abbas
Job title: Founder, Director, Creative Producer, Game designer
Organisation: Biome Collective
Additional partners:
- Katharine Beacham - Head of Raw Materials, Sustainability and Packaging (M&S)
- Prof. Stephen Russell - Chair of Textile Materials & Technology, Director of the Leeds Institute of Textiles & Colour (LITAC), PI of the Back to Baselines (B2B) in Circular Fashion and Textiles programme (School of Design, University of Leeds)
Start date: 20th January 2025
Expected end date: 19th June 2025
Duration: 6 months
13. Mapping non-reusable textile fractions based on economic and environmental analysis using data captured by advanced sensing technology, including NIR spectroscopy, camera vision, and AI
By sorting a substantial volume of non-reusable post-consumer textiles, we will fill the data gap on the fibre composition, weight, identification labels (e.g. barcode/QR codes), metal detection, and garment information recognisable by a camera and AI vision. The project will deliver extensive data on textile waste composition in the UK but also information on the cost of sorting and using different new technologies in sorting. The data will form the basis for mapping the possible routes of these sorted fractions to today's and future recycling processes, each with its environmental and economic benefits analysed.
Project lead: Martin Holicky & Lieve Vanrusselt
Job titles:
Martin Holicky - Co-founder and CEO
Lieve Vanrusselt - Head of Business Development, Director
Organisation: Matoha Instrumentation Ltd.
Additional partners:
- Dr Mark Taylor - Academic lecturer and Research Fellow in sustainable textiles and protective clothing (School of Design, University of Leeds)
- Ross Barry - Co-founder (LMB Textiles Ltd.)
Start date: 1st January 2025
Expected end date: 30th June 2025
Duration: 6 months
14. WRAP Proposal: Understanding the decision-making process of citizen disposal behaviours
The UK has a culture of underutilising and undervaluing clothing. WRAPs research found around half of our unwanted clothing ends up in the bin. Citizens don’t know what to do with clothing they consider unfit for donation or resale. This proposal will deepen our understanding of clothing disposal behaviours, painting a clear picture at the point citizens make decisions. Two innovations in this project are: in-home research capturing participants decision making from wardrobe to disposal, and; use of the insights by Textiles 2030 partners to revolutionise collections, with a potential shift from individual retailer takeback schemes to co-ordinated collection schemes.
Project lead: Martyn Lowder
Job title: Behaviour Change Specialist
Organisation: WRAP
Additional partners:
- Professor Liz Barnes - Professor of Fashion Marketing and Head of Manchester Fashion Institute (Manchester Metropolitan University)
Start date: 1st March 2025
Expected end date: 31st August 2025
Duration: 6 months
15. Development of an AI-Driven Automated Quality Assurance System for Circular Garments
ACS, Europe’s Largest Circular Fashion Hub and their partner University of Leeds, seek to develop an Automated Garment Inspection System that leverages AI to streamline the quality control of their returned garments by detecting defects like stains, alterations, and tears. This system automates the inspection process, ensuring consistent, accurate assessments while significantly reducing the need for manual labour. By integrating with existing systems, it will allow for efficient decision-making based on garment condition. This innovation enhances operational efficiency, reduces costs, and improves the quality of garments available for resale, setting a new benchmark for quality control in the UK Fashion industry.
Project lead: Michael Cusack
Job title: Head of Sustainability
Organisation: ACS Clothing
Additional partners:
- Prof. Ningtao Mao - Professor of Fibre and Textile Technology (School of Design, University of Leeds)
Start date: 1st March 2025
Expected end date: 30th June 2025
Duration: 4 months